Wine Advocate
byStephan Reinhardtthe9/30/2024
Molitor's Serrig 2021 Vogelsang Kabinett is still a little reductive but already delicate and charming in its ripe and lush yet savory, terroir-driven fruit aromas. The cool and rainy 2021 vintage was perfect for the Kabinett style, and this Serriger Vogelsang is a beautiful example. It is rich and generous on the nose yet also refined and savory, with all the Saar spiciness and Serrig finesse you may dream of. Round, generous yet savory, saline and refined, this is a highly stimulating, savory and persistently saline Kabinett of great complexity, length and tension. There are not many Kabinetts of this class in Germany or even the Saar. Egon Müller's and Molitor's own Scharzhofberger are references and maybe also the Euchariusberg Kabniett "Giesela" from Hofghut Falkenstrein and maybe Van Volxem's Gaisberg one day, but that's it. The wine is a little sweet now but also savory and saline, and its predominantly mineral expression has already begun to bite the sugar away. That's definitely a wine to buy—and not only because it costs half of the Grosse Lage! In fact, I initially considered the Kabinett to be the real grand cru and the finest expression of the challenging vintage. It's irresistible and highly stimulating even at this young stage. But it's a Kabinett and not a grand cru. 9.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in September 2024.