The Drink Business
byColin Haythe9/2/2024
Domäne Serrig Vogelsang Grosse Lage (Markus Molitor) 2021 (100% Riesling; from a grand cru vineyard in the Saar; from a legendary estate built by Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1904 on the incredibly steep slate slopes of the Saar river valley; 10 g/l of residual sugar, acidity of 8 g/l; 12% alcohol). Another simply staggering wine from Markus Molitor. There’s so much precision, so much complexity, so much detail and such singularity. Spectacular and extremely memorable. An intense flinty, stony minerality that has one imaging a barren rocky steeply contoured scree slope. Vertiginous acidity, with glorious citron pressé and pamplemouse pressé notes, a little blood orange and orange blossom too. A wine with immense aging potential, but that is already mind-expanding, not least in the incredibly vertical range the fruit seems to travel in the mouth. Brilliantly chiselled, incredibly tense and yet gloriously silky in its texture. A monument to Riesling. 99.