Wine Advocate
byRobert Parkerthe10/31/1992
Last Tasted 8/92
This wine, the best young Haut-Brion I have ever tasted, appears to have taken on even more richness after bottling. It should turn out to be a modern day clone of the 1959 and 1961. Haut-Brion, which will never have the color, tannin, or power of the Medoc first-growths, is uncommonly rich in 1989. The color is a healthy dark ruby/purple, and the nose offers up super-sweet aromas of minerals, black fruits, grilled nuts, and tobacco. In the mouth, there is a suggestion of the roasted quality often found in Graves wines in a torridly hot year. The overall impression is one of phenomenally sweet, ripe, concentrated fruit, with a great mid-palate and staggering length. This wine is crammed with fruit, glycerin, and tannin, as well as that undeniable Graves personality. This is a splendidly rich, impeccably balanced, opulent Haut Brion that is fascinating to taste now, but should evolve gracefully and effortlessly for another 20-25 years. A masterpiece!