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Dr. Loosen, Weingut Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm Erben, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett - Grosse Lage 2018
  • Dr. Loosen, Weingut Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm Erben, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett - Grosse Lage 2018

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Dr. Loosen, Weingut Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm Erben, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett - Grosse Lage 2018

Dr Loosen, exceptional Rieslings from century-old vines

Domaine Dr. Loosen has been a family estate for over two centuries. Thanks to its century-old vines and prestigious plots, it produces exceptional Rieslings. Rated five stars by Falstaff, Domaine Dr. Loosen owes its renown to Ernst Loosen, who took over the estate in 1998 and restored the prestige of Moselle Rieslings by highlighting the unique characteristics of each terroir.

Weingut Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm Erben is an emblematic project by Ernst, in homage to his great-grandfather Zacharias Bergweiler, a well-known winemaker of the 20th century. The estate, located in Wehlen, follows traditional, low-intervention practices.

Wehlener Sonnenur Kabinett comes from exceptional 130-year-old ungrafted vines planted in the blue slate soil of Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The grapes are carefully pressed, fermented and aged for 24 months in traditional casks.

Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2018

The kabinett style is a semi-dry Riesling, made with grapes harvested early during the harvest. Once called “Naturwein” meaning “natural wine”, it was in 1971 that this style of wine was renamed. Dr Loosen's wines are aged in bottles on the estate for a further four years before being released on the market.

The 2018 Moselle harvest, the earliest on record, benefited from equally early budburst and flowering. Despite the summer drought, some rain and the deep-rooted old vines ensured good yields, healthy grapes and excellent quality.

Couleur Blanc
Cépages Riesling 100 %
Appellation Grosse Lage
Millesime 2018
Contenance Bouteille (75 cl)
Wine Advocate
Wine Advocate
    95

byStephan Reinhardtthe10/22/2024

The 2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Vieilles Vignes Riesling Kabinett was selectively harvested from a parcel of 130-year-old ungrafted vines that was handed down by Zacharias Bergweiler, Ernst Loosen's grand-grandfather. Picked at optimal Kabinett ripeness early in the harvest, the grapes were gently pressed in a restored basket press from 1910, then fermented naturally, stopped by racking the fermenting wine into another new 1,000-liter fuder barrel that had just been sulfured, and it then matured in a traditional 1,000-liter fuder cask for 24 months. Bottled with 9.5% stated alcohol and 31.2 grams per liter of residual sweetness, the wine offers a deep, multi-layered and delicately spicy nose that combines ripe, elegant fruit aromas with notes of hazelnuts and mint as well as gray slate. Juicy, round and elegant in the mouth, with a savory grip reminiscent of tea, this is a mouth-filling yet fine and delicately structured Sonnenuhr with plenty of substance and structure as well as remarkable length. The acidity is ripe and fine and also playful, and the wine itself is not even remotely reductive but serious and expressive. This is an excellent Kabinett, whose predicate is rather irritating. The wine is almost too complex and serious for the Kabinett predicate. It is in fact a grand cru with unsweet residual sugar and 8.9 grams per liter of total acidity. It's irresistible, just like Mosel Riesling from the 1950s and 1960s. 1,200 bottles produced. Natural cork. Tasted in October 2024.

Wine Spectator
Wine Spectator
    89

byJames Molesworththe10/16/2024

Expressive, with seductive notes of yellow apple and apricot underscored by vibrant acidity and hints of lemon. Spice and floral accents emerge midpalate as this flows to the long finish. Drink now through 2027. 400 cases imported

The Drink Business
The Drink Business
    95

byColin Haythe8/31/2024

(Mosel; 100% Riesling; just 1200 bottles from a parcel of 130 year old vines on ungrafted rootstock on blue Devonian slate; 31.2 g/l of residual sugar; 9.5.% alcohol; tasted twice, first with the courtier and then from a sample sent from the estate). Just bottled when first tasted. Incredibly intense, pure, quite rich and full. A very sinuous spine to which the fruit is very tightly held. Complex. Very saline. White honey, peanut brittle, almost a little candyfloss and strawberry candy on the finish. White pear, Asiatic pear, flint and slate, passion fruit. A wine of great complexity but great harmony too – my list of descriptors doesn’t quite capture that. Searingly bright in its acidity, with lovely notes of quince and lime. White grapefruit and a hint of bitter almond. There’s a touch of toast too. Very pure and crystalline, despite the viscosity. Struck match on the finish and very saline too. Fascinating. Finishes very high on the top of the mouth. A true vin de garde and another Kabinett capable of redefining the reputation of this often underappreciated style of Riesling. The potential value of this extraordinary.

Vinous
Vinous
    90

byAntonio Gallonithe10/1/2019

A hint of matchstick and yeast needs to blow off. This is pronouncedly mineral and pithily concentrated for a Sonnenuhr Kabinett, in keeping with the face displayed by this year’s Sonnenuhr Grosses Gewächs. Even the site-typical apple and vanilla reflect more the core of the fruit and the bitter side of the bean. The wine’s pronounced piquancy and chew would benefit from being allied to more generous primary juiciness (though I’m skeptical that more residual sugar would have had a positive overall effect). Still, there is an intriguing juxtaposition on the palate of phenolic impingement with underlying creaminess, and the finish exhibits intriguing stony, alkaline and smoky nuances.

Jamessuckling.com
Jamessuckling.com
    93

byJames Sucklingthe9/19/2019

This has such deliciously fresh aromas of white peaches with sweetly fragrant white flowers. The palate has sleek apple-pastry flavors and a fresh, juicy textural kick. Fresh finish. Nice elegance and gentle tension. Drink now. Screw cap.

Information: Details:
Couleur Blanc
Cépages Riesling 100 %
Appellation Grosse Lage
Millesime 2018
Contenance Bouteille (75 cl)

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