Wine Advocate
byStephan Reinhardtthe8/28/2025
The Domäne Serrig 2022 Grosse Lage Vogelsang is a fascinating Riesling from a problematic vintage that was characterized by endless heat waves and, at times, dangerous drought. Thanks to heavily reduced yields, Markus Molitor picked fully ripe and healthy grapes that did not show any stress symptoms, even though the vines are predominantly young. Initially discreet and refined, the nose becomes intense with more air and then, the next day, even seductive in its bright and aromatic perfume, with pure notes of crushed slate, herbs, salt, stewed apples and kumquats or pink grapefruit, then later with ripe, lush and tropical yellow stone fruits. On the palate, this is a rich but refined and elegant Saar Riesling that is everything but bone dry or steely, with a mouth-filling texture and a very long, saline and savory finish with grip and tension yet an overall charming nature. One could argue that this is a richer version of the Kabinett, yet in the long term, this grand cru is the greater, more complex and textured wine. It's a smart solution to leave some residual sugar since the vines are predominantly still young and probably cannot deliver the intensity, depth and complexity of a Riesling from old vines. The finish is still young and, in a positive way, astringent. It will take 10 years or so to meet this wine in its first blossom. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in July 2025.