Vinous
byAntonio Gallonithe5/15/2018
The 2017 Clerc Milon is painfully backward and austere. In a vintage in which so many wines are forward and fruity, Clerc Milon is the exact opposite. There is not much pleasure or immediacy here, that much is evident. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, leather and licorice add to the wine's dark personality. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère, aged in 50% new oak. After the frost, which did not really affect us, the major challenge in 2017 was heat stress," Mouton Technical Director Philippe Dhalluin told me. "We had no rain until the end of June. Then, in September, when we needed a bit of rain again, we got more than double what would have been optimal. The September rain affected the Merlot and Cabernet Franc, while the Cabernet Sauvignon was able to take advantage of the last 15 days of the growing season, which were much more favorable. In the cellar, we opted for longer macerations at lower temperatures, as we wanted to avoid extracting the type of hard tannins that mark other vintages with very dry summers, such as 2011.