Wine Advocate
par Robert Parker le 01/04/1992
Given all the vital technical statistics concerning Chateau Margaux's 1989, I would have thought it would be a blockbuster in the mold of the other-worldly 1982. It is not. It has the same alcohol content (12.8%) and same pH (3.8), but more tannin. There is not nearly the concentration of fruit exhibited by some of Margaux's greatest wines during the eighties - 1982, 1983, and 1986. This is surprising because the Merlot vineyards were pruned back by 50% in July to avoid overcropping. The Merlot was harvested September 9th and the Cabernet Sauvignon between September 18th and September 25th. Several negociants felt the chateau picked the Merlot too late and the Cabernet too early. However, this wine will undoubtedly turn out to be an outstanding Margaux, better than the 1981, 1984, and 1987, but far behind the wines made in 1982, 1983, 1986, and 1990. I believe it to be inferior to the property's superb 1990, which may be a clone of the legendary 1953. Deep ruby in color (rather than the usual black/purple), with a moderately intense bouquet of cassis, oak, and spring flowers, this precocious, flattering wine has a medium-bodied texture, excellent concentration, and a good rather than stunning, long, moderately tannic finish. It is reminiscent of the 1985, but more alcoholic, not as elegant, and somewhat shorter. In 1989, Palmer far outclasses this wine. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2010. Tasted six times. Consistent notes.