matthewjukes.com
byMatthew Jukesthe8/2/2022
The shortest description for 2021 Pavillon Rouge is ‘fine, fine wine’. Philippe Bascaules doesn’t strike me as a chap prone to chuckling, but he liked – fine, fine wine, and it raised a smile. This level of refinement in a super-premium wine is to be celebrated from the rooftops because so often, ‘fine red wines’ are massive, hulking monsters that are ungainly and occasionally un-swallowable. I have never liked this style of wine, and in 2021 you couldn’t make one if you tried. Instead, we have super-bright, clean, pure fruit with none of the sweetness of a hot or late-picked vintage. We also have low alcohols, crunchy acidity and extraordinary freshness everywhere you look. The sacrifices made at Margaux to end up with the two red wines in this Report are astonishing, and this is why they taste more like ‘classic Margaux’ than any I have seen in a long while. Don’t get me wrong – I love Pavillon Rouge like the next person, and I enjoy the fuller-framed wines, too, but when it tastes as resonant and accurate as it does in this vintage, I have to pick my jaw up off the floor. 18