Wine Advocate
byRobert Parkerthe2/28/1997
A word of admiration and praise is in order for Bruno Prats. One of St.-Estephe's most forward thinking producers, Prats is never content with merely making outstanding wine. Over the last few years he has improved Cos d'Estournel, already one of the great wines of Bordeaux, by eliminating any filtration at bottling, and replacing the standard paper label with one made of plastic so it will not disintegrate in damp, humid cellars. Additionally, the quality of his wines in such difficult vintages as 1992 and 1993 has been remarkable. Readers should also note that a second wine, the beautifully packaged Les Pagodes de Cos, has been implemented with the 1994 vintage. It appears to be a fine second wine. This wine has put on significant weight and fat, in addition to developing a degree of opulence that I would not have thought possible. It reveals an opaque purple color, a seamless, sweet, rich, full-bodied, stunningly seductive, profound flavor profile, and a finish that lasts for 30+ seconds. The inner-core of richness, outstanding purity, and gorgeously-layered palate are impressive. Moreover, the wine's acidity, alcohol, and tannin are remarkably well-integrated. This should result in one of the vintage's finest wines.
Cos d'Estournel is clearly producing wines that are often of first-growth potential.