Wine Advocate
byRobert Parkerthe4/30/1997
The 1996 is a surprisingly forward, attractive, less muscular style of Gruaud-Larose. One-third of the production was declassified for a second wine, with one-third of the malolactic fermentation done in barrel. The result is a forward, deep purple-colored wine with a sweet blueberry, kirsch, and jammy cherry-scented nose, medium body, more plushness and up-front fruit than most of the more serious wines of the vintage, and attractive fat and depth. This medium-bodied, moderately tannic wine is destined to evolve quickly, although it will last for 15 or more years. Critics of the old, muscular, super-powerful, full-bodied Gruaud-Laroses that often exhibited earthy, leathery, animal notes along with their layers of concentrated fruit, may be even more fond of this new style of wine.