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Bibi Graetz - Testamatta - Toscana IGT 2021
  • Bibi Graetz - Testamatta - Toscana IGT 2021

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My friends should not miss this!

Bibi Graetz - Testamatta - Toscana IGT 2021

Bibi Graetz, the sangiovese in all its glory

In two decades since his first vintage release, Bibi Graetz has become one of the brightest lights in Tuscan winemaking. This is primarily thanks to the superb quality of his pure sangiovese. Bibi Graetz draws on old vines, which give his best reds depth and soul. Red grapes are cultivated on the hillsides above Florence and sourced from prime sites in the Chianti Classico region, such as Montefili and Lamole.

"Testamatta” – “crazy-head” in Italian - is the best word to describe Bibi Graetz: a positive, creative and
passionate person. Testamatta wine expresses the purity, minerality and transparency of Sangiovese from old vines on the top of the hills characterized by soils rich of stones. A Supertoscan made with 100% Sangiovese, result of the combination of tradition and creativity.

The 2021 vintage
 
Weather conditions
 
The 2021 vintage will be remembered in Tuscany as a powerful one. Concentration, so the grapes were smaller beautiful, airy. It’s kind of a mix between 2015 and 2020. Where you have on one side the character that we have been developing in the last years, this freshness that is really dominant and on the other side you have the opulence, generosity, a kind of “flesh-ness” in the wine.
The season started with a mild and rainy winter. After some cooler temperatures in April, spring continued amicably as May brought enough rain to allow the water supply. Moreover, high temperatures and dry weather conditions in August helped the phenolic ripeness. The vines set a beautiful crop assisted by some rainfalls and cooler temperatures in September.

Tasting notes

“2021, it’s a hit! The right word to describe Testamatta I think is “fleshy”. I say “flesh-ness” because there is a combination of fatness, transparency and freshness. It’s like when you take a steak of Kobe beef, you cut it and you put it on the fire...and it just melts. This beautiful fat, which is the most amazing thing in the world, combined with the transparency and the freshness of the red fruits. This combination in Testamatta is really magical.” Bibi Graetz
Couleur Rouge
Cépages Sangiovese 100 %
Appellation Toscana IGT
Millesime 2021
Contenance Bouteille (75 cl)
Vinous
Vinous
    93

byEric Guidothe4/2/2024

Beautifully understated and finessed, the 2021 Testamatta blossoms with an array of wild strawberries, rose petals and dusty sage. It’s silky to the core, with an elegant wave of ripe red and blue fruits that flows across a stream of fresh acidity. This tapers off with a tactile mineral tinge and a crunchy wild berry concentration as hints of licorice fade amidst a gentle tug of fine tannin. The continued push toward purity at Bibi Graetz is on full display here.

Decanter.com
Decanter.com
    97

byGeorgina Hindlethe9/4/2023

Beautifully fragrant on the nose, delicately scented and inviting with subtle wild flower scents, red and black berries and sweet spices. Chalky and powdery tannins support super bright acidity which gives this such a sharp, thrilling and lively expression. Tannins are super fine but have a spiced edge that grips and holds interest, supportive but not overpowering, letting the acidity and bright fruit flavours shine through. Beautifully delineated and expressed, elegant, refined, totally beguiling yet with layers of flavour and intensity and such a long finish. Feels supremely drinkable and that is such a feat at this young stage. Well worked, balanced, and enjoyable with flashes of heat and spice dotting the finish. Really wonderful and totally charming.

The Drink Business
The Drink Business
    95

byColin Haythe8/31/2023

Spicy. Lithe and limpid. Discrete at first. Quite floral and made in a very crystalline style. Beeswax. Crushed single berries and a little cherry. Wonderfully vibrant and fresh. Raspberry and loganberry, a little redcurrant too and a slight leafiness accentuating the sense of freshness. A little cinnamon and the scent of a dusty baked summer path winding through the vines. A touch of espresso and a little hint of smoke. Limpid, glossy, if lacking just a little of the mid-palate concentration of the wines above (and, indeed, Colore this year), but with nice tension and forward momentum across and over the palate. Stylish and, above all, crystalline. Tender and taut, resolving itself into a fine linear trace on the long finish.

The Wine Independent
The Wine Independent
    96

byLisa Perrotti-Brownthe8/21/2023

The 2021 Testamatta, 100% Sangiovese, is pale to medium garnet-purple in color. It slowly unfurls to offer fragrant notes of kirsch, redcurrant jelly, and black raspberries, followed by suggestions of iron ore, rose oil, and tilled soil. The medium-bodied palate has a firm, chewy texture with a refreshing line supporting the intense red berry and savory layers, finishing long and minerally. This is beautiful!

Jamessuckling.com
Jamessuckling.com
    98

byJames Sucklingthe6/26/2023

Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense linear tannins that are ultra-fine in texture. It's fresh and salty with a brightness and focus. Minerally and crisp. pH is 3.4 highlighting the strength of the acidity. Crunchy. Salty. So delicious now but this will age incredibly well.

Wine Advocate
Wine Advocate
    96

byMonica Larnerthe5/31/2023

The 2021 Testamatta is Sangiovese sourced from various hilltop vineyards spanning different cool microclimates. The ideal is to underline the transparency and fragility of the variety. Fruit from the Olmo Vineyard plays a big role and “gives a strong imprint to this wine,” Bibi says. Testamatta offers fresh aromas of violet, rose, forest green and candied orange peel. Bibi says 2021 was generally warmer than 2020, but all three vintages—2020, 2021 and 2022—are considered hot. He is upbeat regarding 2023 thanks to all the rain. Testamatta shows an earthy note that gives this wine (with 120,000 bottles made) a slightly more accessible personality. The tannins are lightly managed and the oak framing is down to an elegant minimum. Bibi buys 1% new oak each year, and his oldest barrels date back to 2003. He does not pull leaves, and he employs methods that do not concentrate his fruit so he can safeguard the typicity of Sangiovese. Winemaking is as natural as possible. The beautiful results are classic and bright. He strives to keep alcohol contents below 13%.

Information: Details:
Couleur Rouge
Cépages Sangiovese 100 %
Appellation Toscana IGT
Millesime 2021
Contenance Bouteille (75 cl)

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