matthewjukes.com
par Matthew Jukes le 02/08/2022
Unlike many other famous estates in Pomerol, there is a sense that Alexandre and Guillaume Unlike many other famous estates in Pomerol, there is a sense that Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont feel their way through vintages, as opposed to having, or even winging it with, a plan. I sense that if a hurricane arrived on the horizon, then their waste paper bin would receive another direct hit while they drew up a new and utterly relaxed recipe. This template might only last a day, but this openness, ability, and trust in their vineyards allows them never to lose faith in turning gloomy weather forecasts into invigoratingly delicious wines. So it was in 2021 when their old vine Merlot (some vines are 90 years old) kept its nerve and piloted this wine through the storms. Had they not pulled out a block of Cabernet Franc, it would have been jolly helpful in this wine, but I cannot sense any missing jigsaw piece. Guillaume explained that older vintages of VCC always had a sprinkle of Cabernet Sauvignon in the mix, and in 2021 they include fruit from vines planted in 2012. I can’t imagine how heart-warming it must feel to include the fruit from ten-year-old vines in a wine of this level of distinction. So, as always with VCC, my tasting note starts from the end and reverses (no idea why). The acidity and brightness of the finish bring incredible definition and pixelation to this wine. If only my eyesight were this acute. The perfumes and flavours here are delivered in HD - so thank goodness for one’s taste buds! You can experience every intricate detail here without relying on force, concentration or repetition. The persistence of the mildly-exotic cherry fruit and floral spice is sensational, and the silkiness (no more than medium-weight at any stage) is captivating. VCC is a wine that glides, not rolls, across the palate. And then, eventually, the finish scratches to a halt on the palate with a scuff of ultra-fine tannins like a speed-skater going from full pelt to a standing stop in a moment. How amazing that this property didn’t freeze, mildew was in check, and the four weeks of sunshine helped make a good vintage into an epic one. And, Immortelle is alive in this wine, too; Guillaume’s eyes flickered when I mentioned this wizardly trait. 19.5