Wine Advocate
par Robert Parker le 30/04/1997
Millionaires will have a great deal of fun comparing the last three vintages of Latour, 1994, 1995, and 1996. The 1995 should win most of the head-to-head tastings, but in 15-20 years, I expect the 1996 to be at the same quality level as the 1995. The massive 1996 Latour was made from a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Fifty-six percent of Latour's production went into this wine. Yields were a modest 45 hectoliters per hectare (3 tons per acre). The wine is a textbook Latour, as well as a classic Pauillac. It is huge, rugged, and forbidding in its brooding richness, structure, and tannin. The nose reluctantly offers up scents of cassis, minerals, roasted nuts, and, surprisingly, little new oak (another positive characteristic that suggests to me there is very impressive extract in the Medoc's top wines. There is a blue fruit character combined with the classic cassis and mineral-like flavors. Some licorice, as well as chocolate emerge with airing in this full-bodied, powerful, extremely backward wine. I cannot see the 1996 being close to maturity for at least 15+ years. Knowing I will turn 50 in a few months, I wondered if I should consider buying this wine for drinking in my lifetime. In any event, I find readers with the requisite discretionary income to afford these works of art tend to think optimistically. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2040.
P.S. By the way, the 1996 Forts de Latour (a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot) is a very fine effort. This wine possesses excellent sweetness, crisp acidity, and a deep, black/purple color. It is much more forward than the grand vin, but it still needs 7-8 years of cellaring; it will last for 25 or more years. It is a candidate for a 90 point score.