Wine Advocate
par Robert Parker le 30/04/1997
It appears that this great estate could make a more concentrated and complex wine if a few risks were taken. Moreover, couldn't the selection for the grand vin be more severe? When Cheval Blanc does everything right (1982, 1983, 1985, and 1990), this is one of the most exotic, compelling wines made in the world, yet recent vintages, while obviously delicious, have been lighter than expected for one of Bordeaux's most famous wines. Admittedly, Cheval Blanc has a tendency to put on weight, but my instincts suggest that a stricter selection (charge higher prices if necessary) will result in more persuasive and authoritative wines. Nevertheless, the moderately dark purple-colored 1996 reveals an evolved blueberry and redcurrant, coconut, spicy new oak-scented bouquet, medium body, soft, round, savory flavors, and a clean finish. It lacks concentration and depth, but this wine is still seductive, albeit too compressed, polite, and under-sized. The 1996 Cheval Blanc should drink well early, and last for 15 years. Given the recent higher quality efforts at Ausone, it is easy to imagine that Ausone may begin to outdistance Cheval Blanc in head to head competition.