Wine Advocate
byRobert Parkerthe4/1/1998
Mouton has been experimenting with malolactic fermentation in barrel (20% of the 1997 was vinified in this manner). The 1997, which possesses some characteristics similar to the 1985, but is ultimately different, is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Only 60% of Mouton's harvest made it into the grand vin. This is a hedonistic, forward Mouton (hence the comparison with the 1985) with a deep ruby/purple color, ripe tannin, and the tell-tale Mouton cassis in its aromatics and flavors. Mouton's Merlot harvest took place on September 11, and was then stopped until September 16, concluding with the very late-picked Cabernet Sauvignon on October 5. Approachable, without the massiveness of the two preceding vintages, the 1997 Mouton exhibits a soft mid-palate, loads of pure fruit, nicely-integrated smoky new oak, and surprising length for the wine's initial attack. There is moderate tannin in this offering. This will be one of the few 1997s that will warrant a short-term cellaring of 3-4 years before consumption. I would not be surprised to see this wine last for two decades or more, making it one of the longer-lived 1997s.