Wine Advocate
par Robert Parker le 30/04/1998
If the image of Petrus needed any resurrection after its excellent but less-than-dazzling performances in 1979, 1981, 1983, 1985, 1986, and 1987, the 1989 is this property's showcase vintage. Christian Moueix has responded to the challenge from a half-dozen or so other Pomerols that have been making noises about dethroning the unofficial King of Pomerol. By cutting off nearly half the crop in July and August, by deciding to pick early (September 5 and 6, and the balance on September 14), and by eliminating anything less than perfect from the final blend, in 1989 Moueix authoritatively demonstrated that only Petrus can out-Petrus itself. This is a compelling wine, resembling the 1982 in many aspects. But it is even more concentrated, as hard as that may be to believe. Moueix thinks it is the finest Petrus since the 1947, and he will get few rebuttals from those who have a chance to taste it. Black/purple, with the intense, dramatic bouquet of superconcentrated blackcurrants, tobacco, tea, and plums, this wine makes a palate impression that is unforgettable. The 1989 exhibits great extraction of fruit, a dense, huge, massive texture, and a fabulous black fruit, spice, and herb-scented nose that is gently touched by aromas of new oak. Almost thick, this wine is also extremely tannic. My guess is that despite its high alcohol, glycerin, and low acidity, it will need at least 10 years after bottling to fully reveal its considerable potential. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2035. Tasted five times. Consistent notes.