Wine Advocate
par Robert Parker le 28/04/2010
Proprietor Stephan von Neipperg has made so many
terrific wines at this estate since the late 1980s, it’s
hard to say that the 2009 is going to turn out to be the
finest, but did it show well on the four separate times I
tasted it! A final blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet
Franc, and a whopping 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
(somewhat unusual for this area of St.-Emilion), the
natural alcohol was 14%. Stephane Derenoncourt is
the long-time wine consultant at all of Stephan von
Neipperg’s estates. Yields were shockingly low here, 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is a beauty of
both elegance and power. Dark ruby/purple, with notes
of incense, sweet cedar, black cherry jam, cassis, and
blackberry as well as licorice and subtle smoke, this
wine has superb texture, a full-bodied mouthfeel,
stunning concentration, and not a hard edge to be
found. It is one of those remarkable 2009s with
amazing power and density, but also tremendous
finesse, precision, and freshness, an anomaly in itself.
This wine should drink well for 15-20 years, based on
the fact that the 1990, a vintage far lower in acidity and
not nearly as concentrated, is still at the top of its
game. Bravo! (Tasted four times.) Drink 2010-2030.